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4. Along the Silk Road: Kuhjand, Tajikistan
- Laurie Hull
- Apr 25
- 3 min read
Updated: Aug 18
Tajikistan was the briefest stop on our itinerary, and it left an impression out of proportion to its short time on the schedule. I knew very little of the country and remain curious, but know one thing: the people were friendly, curious, and authentic.
Getting there meant a long drive over the mountains and a border crossing that was its own small adventure: two checkpoints leaving Uzbekistan, two more entering Tajikistan, concertina wire strung along the route we walked suitcases in tow, and no cameras allowed at the crossing itself. Such a strange feeling.
Ninety-three percent of Tajikistan is mountainous, and even though our route only took us to the edge of the country on the way into Khujand, you could feel the scale of that landscape in the distance, a different kind of vista than the deserts of Uzbekistan we had just left behind. Mulberry trees lined the roads on the long drive in, and storks nested on electrical poles along the way, quite different from anything else we've seen to date.
Khujand itself sits in the Fergana Valley, and the city feels caught between two identities, with older Soviet-era buildings standing next to newer modern constructions (a common theme in Central Asia), and a population that has historically identified as much with Persian heritage as with the patchwork Soviet borders that eventually defined the country.
The first stop was the Panjshanbe Bazaar, which is my favorite activity in any country. Markets reveal so much about a nation and its people. The bazaar in Khujand was vibrant (I didn't even need to adjust my photo edit to vivid - LOL) and a joy, filled with cotton, wheat, fruit, pomegranates, and apricots, the agricultural backbone of a country where the land still legally belongs to the state. We also discovered that average salaries here are surprisingly low, around 320 dollars a month, and that a majority of marriages are still arranged. These aren't abstract concepts when you're standing in the middle of a market observing daily life around you. They are simply the realities of how people live, in a country that is the poorest in Central Asia, yet one where the hospitality and warmth we experienced never faltered. I found the people to be incredibly genuine and enjoyable. Many were eager to pose for photos, and some of the younger women tried out their English skills. I could easily spend days in the markets asking all sorts of questions about their food and culture.
Tajikistan came and went quickly, almost a single long day between two of Uzbekistan's grand cities, but sometimes the smallest stop on a trip turns out to be the one you think about the most on the plane home.
The Panjshanbe Bazaar (yes, they love their cell phones too):
Arbob Cultural Palace, Khujand
This Palace was the venue where the Tajik Supreme Soviet convened in 1992 to formally adopt the independent flag and conduct peace talks to conclude the Tajik Civil War. It was originally constructed in the 1950s during the Soviet era as the headquarters for a local collective farm, inspired by the winter palace and gardens of Peterhof in St. Petersburg, Russia.
Here are a few shots of the beautiful Palace to include our local guide.
We enjoyed settling into our lovely hotel room before taking a leisurely stroll through the picturesque Khujand City. The early evening provided ideal lighting for the water fountains and gardens, and it was delightful to watch children playing and riding electric cars, which were actually controlled by teenagers with remote controls. The kids genuinely believed they were in charge—it was adorable.
The drive from Khujand to Samarkand took us through the breathtaking Fann Mountains, winding along the Zeravshan Valley with views that made the long hours on the bus completely worthwhile.
Here are a few photos of our drive through the Fann Mountains from Tajikistan to Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
