Nepal: Chants of "Om Padme Hum" Bhaktapur, Swayamblunath, Boudhanath, Pharping and Neydo Monastery
- Laurie Hull
- Apr 13
- 2 min read
Bhaktapur: Ancient City Playground
Just outside of Kathmandu is Bhaktapur, a beautifully preserved ancient city (14th century) often called the City of Devotees. This non-touristy town felt like stepping back in time, with its quiet alleys, unique architecture (detailed wood carvings), and deep sense of history. We spent several hours exploring Durbar Square, home to pagodas, Hindu temples, and the famous 55-Window Palace carved entirely from wood - see peacock carving in the photos below. Truly a relaxing and fascinating experience! Local artisans still create traditional pottery here along with other handicrafts like puppets. Bhaktapur was a peaceful contrast to the chaos of Kathmandu—less crowded, more walkable, and full of ancient beauty.





Outside of Kathmandu, we visited the Swayambhunath Buddhist temple and UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the most ancient holy shrines in Kathmandu. The site is also known as the Monkey Temple, for the parade of monkeys who call the complex home.




Boudhanath Stupa:
The eyes painted on each side of the stupa were comical yet eerie; after all, they are "Buddha Eyes" and are all-seeing. It was like waiting for Buddha's wisdom to guide me to enlightenment. A stupa is a dome-shaped structure built to honor Buddha and his teachings. To pray you must walk three times clockwise around the stupas. Circumambulating (new word for me) a stupa in a clockwise direction is a form of prayer and devotion. Three circumambulations are a common minimum, often associated with the Three Jewels of Buddhism (Buddha, Dharma, and Sangha).

Pharping:
After a long and rough drive, we made it first to Pharping. The roads were under construction, so it was a slow and bumpy journey. I reluctantly crossed the Sokhel Suspension Bridge with nail-biting fear (thanks for holding my hand, Janice) then walked into the peaceful village of Pharping.

Neydo Tibetan Monastery:
One of the most unforgettable experiences was the evening and early morning chanting at Neydo Tibetan Monastery. Listening to the gentle, rhythmic voices of young monks starting their day in meditation was incredibly soothing. Some of the monks, still in training, were a bit restless, which only added to the authenticity of the experience. This was the only monastery we could photograph inside. It was easy to immerse yourself in the sounds, sights, and the fragrance of incense, letting your mind wander freely. I have encountered Buddhism in many countries and strive to understand its complexities and variations. In Nepal, it seems to me like a blend of Buddhism and Hinduism. Watching the sunrise from the monastery's rooftop, overlooking the rice fields, felt sacred. About 200 young monks reside there, training in the Nyingmapa tradition. This particular monastery is relatively new, having been established in 2006.

village life:
Next up, a long drive on muddy and uneven roads to beautiful Pokhara.