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Nepal: More Than Mountains
- Laurie Hull
- Apr 10
- 3 min read
Updated: May 19
I climbed Mt. Everest - Nah - just kidding! Nepal had long been on my travel wishlist, though I knew I probably wouldn’t be hiking to Everest Base Camp or setting off on one of the longer treks like so many others. What drew me instead were the Himalayan mountains, the peaceful monasteries, and, most of all, my curiosity of the Nepalese people and culture. I was especially happy to have Janice join me for this journey—and for the Bhutan adventure that followed.
The people of Nepal did not disappoint. I was genuinely struck by how calm, kind, and friendly everyone was. Even in moments that might cause tension—like when one car backed into another—there was no yelling, no drama. Just quiet acknowledgment, and then life carried on. It was both fascinating and refreshing. Everyone says “Namaste,” and you can feel that they truly mean it (I greet the divine in you). There’s a gentleness in their spirit that stays with you.
As for the majestic views of the snowcapped Himalayas—those remained mostly hidden from us on the ground. But when we finally caught glimpses from the air, they felt all the more magical.
Visiting Nepal with National Geographic Journeys through G Adventures was truly an unforgettable experience. What made it especially meaningful was our Guide, Suman. He was incredibly skilled at reading group dynamics, understanding each of our needs, and adding thoughtful touches that enriched every moment. We did not just connect with Nepal, but also with each other in our small group of nine. I do not know if I have ever laughed so hard. We entertained each other with stories and observations, and by the end of the trip, I was sad to leave the group (nine of us from Ireland, Switzerland and the US).
Our itinerary was full of variety and delightful surprises. For example, we were welcomed with a sound bath and later took a scenic flight to see Mount Everest. It took three tries to fly near Mt. Everest due to weather, but we finally made it on our last day. The view was absolutely worth the wait. As an added bonus, we saw it again on our flight from Kathmandu to Paro, Bhutan. My sister Lisa cleverly drew in our first non-sighting of Mt Everest by hand - see below, its the obvious one.
"Faith and Flying" yikes!
One of the most meaningful highlights for me was a cooking class in a small village, hosted by women who managed local homestays. We learned how to make momos, the famous Nepalese dumplings, and experienced a powerful connection to everyday life. The momos were delicious and the women were empowered and funny. As someone who enjoys spicy food, I loved that the cuisine in Nepal which was similar to Indian food. It featured rich curries, bold flavors, and plenty of spice. My favorite was the Thakali Thali (Newari cuisine), which typically includes lentil soup, rice, vegetable curry, chicken or meat curry, pickles, greens, and condiments.
We spent several days in Kathmandu, which I found to be a complicated city and jumping off point for trekkers to Mt Everest. It was chaotic, had poor air quality, and was dangerous to walk in, yet it was also lively and full of charm. You quickly learned to go with the flow and found amazing food, great coffee, and encounters with the kindest people. A surprise highlight was the three-day Indian wedding at our hotel. We had front row seats and were mesmerized by the luxury and festive spirit. It was truly over the top!
Did you know the Beatles stayed at the Kathmandu Guest House in 1968?
Kathmandu street scenes:
The Wedding (complete with welcome drummers):
Kathmandu also has a Hindu crematory we visited. It was intense, raw, shocking, and deeply thought provoking. I had seen similar ceremonies in Varanasi, India, but this was more intimate. We saw a family preparing the body of a loved one, guiding it from ceremonial bathing to the fire. I was profoundly moved by the wailing cries of the widow. I was not sure I should have witnessed the process so closely. I dreamt about it later, and it stayed with me for days.
Stay tuned for the next chapter, where the stillness of monasteries, the joy of local celebration, and a few unexpected turns on jungle roads await.
Mandala paintings
Our plan
