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Seven Weeks in Antibes, France: Learning to Stay
- Laurie Hull
- 1 day ago
- 4 min read
Bonjour! Welcome to Antibes, France on the French Riviera (Côte d'Azur) between Nice and Cannes. I've already been here two weeks and am torn between wanting to experience everything on the French Riviera and wanting to stay put and savor Antibes.
Right now, I’m sitting in yet another coffee shop in Antibes, thinking about how far-fetched this once seemed. Years ago, I casually said (half joking, half dreaming) One day I’m going to the South of France to take French lessons. Once a seed like that gets planted in my brain, it doesn’t go away. I kept thinking about it, nudging myself, telling myself I should just do it. And now here I am.
The plan is to have one month of French language classes, followed by three weeks of exploring the region. I’m here with my friend Kathy, and after just two weeks, it’s hard to explain how exhilarating this all feels. Antibes is drop-dead gorgeous, and because it’s the off-season, it feels authentic and lived-in, not overrun by tourists. This feels like the real Antibes.
It’s also the first time in a long while that I’ve truly challenged my brain. And wow: stressful and exhilarating can coexist. I’ve consumed an incredible amount of information these last two weeks. So much that I honestly don’t know how I’ll sort it all out yet. My instructor insists this is exactly how it goes and that eventually, it starts to sink in. I believe her… even though I’ve already had at least one full blank-stare moment in class where my brain simply shut down. The block. Like writer’s block, but in French. The School's name is Centre International d'Antibes.
Outside of class, life is settling into a rhythm. I joined a local gym so I can keep up with my workouts, and I’ve already fallen into the habit of wandering the markets which are overflowing with incredibly fresh, beautiful produce. We’re literally two minutes from the main market, which is absolutely amazing.
I brought my mirrorless camera and plan on taking some quality photos. You’ll see my name on those photos since I put a lot more effort in their quality level.
TMI alert—feel free to stop here. But if you’re still reading…
My goal is to establish good habits right away: a healthy breakfast, a nourishing snack after class, and then a little indulgence at dinner - balanced with cooking at home when we feel like it. We bought fresh salmon at the market this week and made a delicious dinner in our Airbnb. Simple. Perfect. Fresh salmon and rotisserie chicken were our at-home meals so far.
My mind still races as there are a million things I want to see and do. I am, unfortunately, somewhat regulated by my leg and hip, which limits me more than I’d like. But maybe that’s not such a bad thing. Maybe it’s forcing me to sit longer in cafés, observe more, rush less. Not that I need much encouragement to do that.
Our Airbnb dates back to the 1700s, complete with charming quirks and plenty of trip hazards (very European). But we’ve made it comfortable. Kathy graciously gave me the larger bedroom, and we’ve slowly turned the apartment into a little oasis, buying measuring cups, a hot water bottle for the bed, and other small comforts that make seven weeks feel livable, not temporary.
Our Rue (pedestian only alley), kitchen and view out the window
Transportation has been… a learning curve. By the fourth day, I finally figured out the bus system, surprisingly efficient once you get the hang of it. One day I missed my stop. Another day I couldn’t figure out the app. Progress isn’t linear. We also have the train app and took the train to as part of a school tour - all in French. Let’s just say my absorption rate was low. Classes themselves are entirely in French: three and a half hours every morning, Monday through Friday. It’s intense and exactly what I wanted.
I found my favorite coffee shop almost immediately, right by the market. It’s the only place open as early as 7 a.m., which makes it even more special. I’ve settled into my perfect coffee order, and yes, I now know how to say it in French. “je voudrai on du lait d'avoine avec trois doses d'espresso”
Random observations:There are a lot of elderly people here, many using canes, which somehow makes the city feel safe, gentle, and accommodating to those who move a little slower. Oddly enough, that makes me feel younger—and very welcomed.
Dogs are everywhere. The French clearly love their dogs.
Coffee shops, prepared foods, and restaurants abound, with food that rivals anything I’ve had in the States, only much fresher. And the markets.....the best! We are a minute walk to the local outdoor market.
Everyone has been incredibly kind and patient, probably helped by the fact that it’s off-season. I’m so grateful I’m here now, even if it’s chilly. When the sun comes out, it’s perfect.
Our class is small (seven people, soon to be five) and we’ve already started making plans to meet up at markets and restaurants around town. It feels easy. Natural. Like the beginning of a small community.
Until the next post: à bientôt
more of the Nomad
Antibes port and the Fort Carré by at night
