The Kingdom of Bhutan: A Dream 20 Years in the Making

Laurie Hull
Apr 20
4 min read

Over twenty years ago, I saw a photo of a mystical monastery clinging to the side of a cliff. I didn’t know where it was, but I instantly knew I had to go there. A little research revealed it was the Tiger’s Nest (Taktsang) in Bhutan. At first, the idea of reaching it felt nearly impossible. But after a year of dreaming and planning, I made the decision: I’m doing this. And I did, alongside my good friend Janice, on a small group tour with National Geographic Journeys and G Adventures. I have lots of photos - so get ready to join me on my trip to Bhutan.

We traveled with a fun and easygoing group of eight: one from Canada, two from the UK, two from Australia, and three of us from the U.S, lead by our fantastic local guide Chunjor. We quickly bonded over the magic and uniqueness of this incredible country. Even though the hike to the Tiger’s Nest turned out to be the most challenging trek I’ve ever done, starting at 8,500 feet and climbing past 10,000, it was absolutely worth every breathless step. (More on that hike later.)

From the moment we landed in Paro, I was enchanted. A dangerous airport due to its extreme ascent/decent and drop dead gorgeous. We wander off the plane freely walking where we want on the tarmac looking up at a huge mural of the King and his family on the side of the airport. Baggage claim was clean, majestic and highly efficient - worth mentioning. It’s a good start!

Bhutan is like no other place I've been: authentic, spiritual, and breathtakingly beautiful. It’s the last remaining Buddhist kingdom, governed by a constitutional monarchy and a strong Buddhist philosophy that shapes every aspect of life. One of my favorite fun facts: The king requires citizens to wear traditional clothing during working hours to preserve cultural heritage.

Tourism is carefully controlled here. Visitors must pay a daily fee (currently $100), for their "quality" approach to tourism to preserve Bhutan’s culture and natural beauty – lessons they learned by watching neighboring countries. And what a bonus to be in the country during a rare three-day state visit from the King of Thailand with prayer flags streamed across towns and mountain passes in honor of his arrival.

Our journey began in Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital. After a warm welcome from our guide Chunjor, we met with a Buddhist monk who played a key role in developing the country’s innovative "Gross National Happiness" philosophy. It was an incredible one-on-one conversation about how Bhutan measures success not by GDP, but by the well-being and contentment of its people. They even give out detailed national surveys to assess this! see below pdf survey.

Fun Fact: Our Guide Chunjor was from the very remote mountain town featured in the movie "Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom". A must see movie.

From there, we crossed the stunning Dochu La pass (10,000 ft) and traveled to Punakha, visiting the Chimi Lhakhang fertility temple. That’s right, the temple famous for its many phallic symbols carved into walls, painted on homes, and sold in shops. We found this common throughout Bhutan. Our group quickly turned it into a daily scavenger hunt. Bhutanese culture doesn’t shy away from this symbol as it’s a traditional sign of good fortune and fertility.

On the way out of town we were treated to an archery competition.

Our guide Chunjor on the right. Archery competition on the outskirts of town. Archery is a national sport. Our expert driver Tinley is an avid player.

Celebrating the win

Rest stop and music video in the making

Rest stop and prayer wheel on the intense hike up to the the Chimi Lhkhang Temple

Chimi Lhkhang prayer flags

A Country That’s Not Shy: The Art of Fertility in Bhutan

Yes, it's what you think. The "Art" was everywhere

Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, Punakha:

This was one of the most breathtaking temples we visited in Bhutan. High above the Punakha Valley, Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten is a relatively new stupa, built in 2004 by the Queen Mother to promote peace and harmony throughout the kingdom. Reaching it required a scenic hike—across a suspension bridge, through rice terraces, and up a pine-covered hill.

Once at the top and inside the first floor of the temple, we were welcomed by the sound of monks chanting. Later, they graciously served us tea and cookies. After a moment of prayer, it was amusing to see a few monks casually scrolling on their phones. Inside, the temple spans three beautifully painted levels, each filled with intricate murals and colorful statues of deities meant to protect against evil. As we explored each floor, we were surrounded by the rhythmic sound of chanting—these were the voices of practiced, devoted (professional) monks. I felt like I was stepping into an intense, almost cinematic ritual scene, or something straight out of a mysterious, cultish film. I could have pinched myself to make sure I was really there. I hated not being able to take photos, but maybe that made the experience feel even more surreal and sacred. I could have hung out there all day.

The rooftop offered a spectacular 360-degree view of the Mo Chhu River winding through the valley below, framed by lush farmland and forested hills. It felt like standing at the edge of the world, breathing in the purest mountain air. Definitely a moment to remember.

Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, Punakha – Spot the photo bombers?

The countryside

Punakha:

Punakha offers one of the most majestic fortresses in Bhutan, the Punakha Dzong, beautifully situated at the merging of two rivers. We also hiked to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, crossing a suspension bridge and weaving through rice terraces and pine forests. It wasn’t a trekking trip, per se, but let me tell you, Bhutan gives your legs and knees an intense workout. Punakha Dzong was the administrative center and seat of Government until 1955, then the capital was moved to Thimphu.